Sculpting the Senses in Rotterdam

Until March 1, 2026, Kunsthal Rotterdam is dedicated to the world-renowned Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen (1984). Van Herpen is considered one of the most avant-garde couturiers of her generation. Through her groundbreaking use of innovative techniques within her field, Van Herpen breaks fashion conventions while simultaneously embracing the traditional craftsmanship of haute couture. The exhibition Sculpting the Senses is a journey through Van Herpen's universe and presents a compelling overview where fashion, contemporary art, design, and science converge. The Kunsthal presents over one hundred iconic creations in which Van Herpen constantly challenges the boundaries of haute couture. Bad news: all time slots are sold out and the exhibition will not be extended. In this blog, we look at Iris van Herpen's extraordinary creation, a dress with algae.

Spectacular algae creation by Iris van Herpen

The 'living look' from Iris van Herpen's Sympoiesis collection, a creation made with 125 million bioluminescent algae, is on display to the general public for the first time following its unveiling during her haute couture show in Paris this summer. Starting Saturday, September 27, everyone can admire this exceptional creation in the exhibition Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses at Kunsthal Rotterdam.

During Paris Haute Couture Week 2025, Van Herpen presented a world first this summer: the first couture dress that is fully alive. For this design, Van Herpen collaborated with biodesigner Christopher Bellamy and researchers from the University of Amsterdam and the Francis Crick Institute for Biomedical Discovery on a creation formed with luminous algae. These bioluminescent organisms react to heat and movement with a blue glow, causing the dress to literally come to life on the catwalk.

Day and night rhythm

The innovative design, manufactured using custom-made molds and a specially developed nutrient gel, is cared for like a living ecosystem. The algae species Pyrocystis lunula, which occurs naturally in the sea, produces light as a defense mechanism. In the exhibition at the Kunsthal, the algae's biological system is mimicked: humidity, temperature, and the algae's day-night cycle are carefully regulated to optimize the living environment.

Connectedness

The name Sympoiesis, derived from the Greek 'to make together', emphasizes that the collection revolves around collaboration, symbiosis, and connectedness. Van Herpen's innovative approach shows how fashion can emerge from a dialogue between man and nature, and invites us to radically reconsider our view of clothing and creation.